Contrasts in accommodation by Royston Ellis

The first thing I did when the butler finished explaining the intricacies of my suite at Cinnamon Lodge was to jump into the Jacuzzi. Well, who wouldn't after the five-hour drive from Colombo to Habarana and discovering the suite actually had three bathrooms?

A butler comes with a Cinnamon Lodge suite, of which there are only four in the 142-unit resort. Suite life at Cinnamon Lodge is unique because of the suite’s size: a two-storey villa with two bedrooms, perfect for a family with demanding kids, or two couples holidaying together.

Entrance to the villa leads to a hall, complete with hat stand, and into a vast parlour with television, chaises longues and a family-sized dining table. The junior bedroom is also on the ground floor, with its own television set and fully equipped bathroom. Stairs of polished, fine-grained coconut wood lead up to the master bedroom with king size bed, another television and a dedicated bathroom with lake-view Jacuzzi. The villa’s three television sets seems superfluous with so much to gaze at in the park.

With 612 different species of tree, including rare mahogany and ebony, and 136 different species of birds, to say nothing of the gambolling monkeys, tame grey squirrels and affable mongooses, at Cinnamon Lodge nature works magic on the prickliest personality. And always on hand is the butler, swathed in soothing orange tunic and sarong, to tend to every need.

To the east on the beach at Trincomalee, two and a half hours’ drive away there is a delightful contrast in accommodation. While west coast beach hotels have moved upmarket with trendy refurbishment and boutique accoutrements, the Hotel Club Oceanic retains the conventional atmosphere for a successful family beach holiday.

The friendly attitude of the staff adds a heartfelt warmth to the ambience of the hotel and staff members are encouraged to develop a good rapport with guests. The top accommodation is in one of 16 beach chalets built in four blocks, with upstairs rooms with balcony or downstairs rooms with veranda and direct access to the beach. There are also 40 rooms in the main block, equally comfortable, the only difference (apart from price) between the Superior and Standard grades being the view.

I relished the informality of Club Oceanic. There was no fuss, only an eagerness that showed the staff enjoyed being there too. Meals are served as buffets and the dish most in demand is the delicious crab curry. After sampling that for lunch, and then the Saturday night barbecue dinner on the beach, and a mix of Sri Lankan and western dishes at breakfast the next morning, I decided it would be worth staying at Club Oceanic for the food alone.

I bet that in a few weeks it will be impossible to get a room there, not just because of the improved situation in the country, but also because of the traditional, relaxing beach break that only Club Oceanic can deliver.